TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

Wierd things happening in your car? Strange noises, rattles, shimmies or bumps, check through this section to see if you can hunt it down and kill it before it grows.

Car stalls at idle

Stock carbs only, check the idle enrichment solenoid located on the side of the carb. With the engine off ,but the ignition on, pull the wire from the solenoid. You should here it click if not use a test light to check for power in the wire. If there is no power find the source of the problem and repair it. If the wire has power change the solenoid.

After market carbs as well stockers.

• Check for vacuum leaks
• Make sure choke is working properly
• Check timing (do not over advance)
• Check & or adjust points
• Check for broken or burned ign. wires (get them off the header)
• Adjust idle speed
• Daul carbs, make sure they are in sync.

Clunks on acceleration or deceleration

Chech the front transmission mount (nosecone). Make sure that it is not broken and is tightened securely.

Trouble finding gears

• check shifter coupling it may be worn and have play in it. The coupling is located under the rear seat. there's a small cover at the rear of the tunnel remove it and there is the coupling. Wiggle the shifter handle around if there is any noticeable play replace the coupling.
  • Back to baja conversion
• Also may be guide bushing in tunnel near the shifter handle. This requires removal of the shifter handle. Then you will need to remove the shifter rod. To do this first undue the shifter coupling (see above). Then crawl under the front of the car and remove the tunnel cover. From inside the car slide the shifter rod forward until it clears the bushing. Replace bushing then reassemble in reverse order.
• A broken or loose nose cone can also cause problems

Front-end wobbles

• Start by checking steering stabilizer shock
• Check tire balance
• Check for bent wheel

Jack up front-end

• check for looseness in the king & link pins or ball joints. Due this by placing a large screw driver under the tire and prying up and down on it.
• Check for loose wheel bearings by pulling in and out on the top of the tire. Also spin the tire if it sound rough pull the bearings and inspect them.
• Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look for play in the tie rod ends.
• Adjust brakes evenly

If you find play in any of the components replace them.

Play in the steering wheel

Check the steering box adjustment. Open the trunk. In front of the gas tank on the drivers side you will see a cover plate, remove it. Now you can see the steering box. Look at the screw coming out of the top of it. If it is sticking up above the lock nut a ways you should be able to adjust it. loosen the lock nut and turn the screw in a little at a time while checking the play in the wheel. You will need to leave a little play in the wheel. When you think it's satisfactory snug the lock nut. IMPORTANT now turn the wheel all the way in both directions to check for binding spots. If the wheel binds you will need to back off the adjustment until it's free in both directions. Everything's good tighten down the lock nut and replace the cover, your done. NOTE this is also a good time to check the oil in the box.

Throttle seems to pull by itself upon acceleration

Broken transmission nose cone.

Engine rattles or pings

• set the timing correctly (this is critical on VWs)
• in hotter climates use high octane fuel
• Check valve adjustment (loose valves can rattle badly)

Gas in oil

Bad fuel pump. I recommend replacing with electric.

Pops out of reverse

Go easy on the reverse gear its quite weak. If it's gone you will need to have the tranny rebuilt.

Brakes just don't seem to stop you

This can happen with oversize tires on bajas and its usually the rears causing the problem.

• Install larger diameter wheel cylinders (rear only)
• Try semimetalic shoes
• Convert to type III brakes
• Go all out and convert to disc

  It's important to modify your rear brakes first in order to maintain proper braking balance with the larger tires on the rear. You DO NOT want the front tires locking up first on your baja. If this happens you will not be able to steer and I guarantee you will end up in a world of hurt.

Clutch seems to stick

check the flexible cable housing between the body and the tranny bracket. the inner lining can wear or become loose jamming the cable.

Clutch chatter (engine shutters on take off)

• Improper adjustment; may also cause slippage
• Oil on disc from leaking seal (engine or trans)
• Disc glazed over from over heating (don't slip that disc)
• Hot spots or cracks in flywheel or pressure plate (again don't slip that disc)
• Broken spring in pressure plate
• Bad tranny mounts or broken nose cone

Clicking from rear or suffering cv loses

• To sharp of an angle on the CVs
• Lower the rear of the car
• Convert to bus CVs
• Make sure your suspension stops are not to low

Rear brake drum comes loose

• Improper torque on axle nut (must be 220 ft. lb.)
• If you do not have a flange type nut replace it with the flange type.
• Worn splines

If your drum has come loose check the splines on both the axle and drum. If they show signs of wear replace them.

Runs rough, back-fires on acceleration

• Vacum leaks on intake system
• Check carb gasket
• check manifold to head gaskets
• Dual ports check rubber manifold boots

Has a flat spot on acceleration

• Most common cause is faulty accelerator pump in carb

• Check the linkage adjustment
• could be a bad diaphragm in pump

• vacuum leaks (see above)
• Retarded timing (do not over advance to compensate for this problem)

Blows black smoke

Caused by to much fuel

• Check for stuck or misadjusted choke
• Electric choke, make sure it has power and that the element is not burned out.
• Improper carb jetting
• Float set to high
• Improper carb (bigger isn't always better)

Blows blue smoke

Caused by oil burning

• bad valve guides
• bad rings

In either case your engine is most likely due for an overhaul, so start saving your dollars until you have enough for the entire job. In the mean time go easy and check the oil often. Remember a stock VW only holds 2 1/2 quarts of oil.(approx. 2 ltrs) If its knocking don't run it period (see below).

Engine Knocks

• Check oil level

oil level is ok.

This is bad, if your not familiar with engines find someone who is. It's most likely caused by bad bearings. I recommend that you don't run it, if you are somewhere that you have no choice go easy on it. Throw a rod or sieze the motor and your done. It will mean buying a new motor and you will have to pay the core charge as well. OUCH!

May also be caused by loose fly wheel. This knock is usually louder than the bearing knock. If you have had clutch work done or installed a new motor recently this may be the problem. The gland nut holding the flywheel on must be torqued to 220 ft. lbs. or it WILL come loose destroying your flywheel and crankshaft. NOTE If you are building a hefty motor it is strongly recommended that you have the crankshaft and flywheel drilled for 8 dowels in order to stand up to the extra HP.

Whirling rumbly noises

Bad bearing somewhere.

• Axle bearing (front or rear)
  Jack up the rear-end and place a pry bar under the rear tire. pry up and down on it to look for play in the bearings. On the front pry in and out on the top of the tire. If there's any play pull the bearing to inspect them.

• Transmission bearing

Squeals when depressing the clutch

• Bad clutch throw out bearing
  Pull engine and replace the bearing.
  • Good time to inspect the clutch components
  • Maybe install solid trans mount
  • Check the main seal for leaks
  • Check starter bushing